Fascinating Sabah - Bohey Dulang, Mantabuan and Sibuan
Hiking and snorkeling in Sabah, Borneo
My heart was pounding and I was so hot, I felt like passing out. But after a little break and some sips of lukewarm water, I kept walking through the steaming hot jungle. Soon I reached the top. The breathtaking view over the sapphire blue lagoon and the little islands surrounding Bohey Dulang was worth every drop of sweat!
Breathtaking views are waiting for those who hike 700 m uphill through the steaming hot jungle on Bohey Dulang.
Bohey Dulang, the second largest island of Tun Sakaran Marine Park, is a mountainous island formed by the remnants of an ancient volcano and is about 353 m high. To get to Bohey Dulang, it takes an approximately 40 min boat trip from Semporna. I was staying in Semporna for a few nights at The Firefly Resort, after a mesmerizing five days on Mabul with Scuba Junkie, and before heading to Sandakan and Sepilok for Kinabatangan wildlife watching. I had some time to kill, so I decided to book a one-day boat trip to Bohey Dulang, Mantabuan and Sibuan for hiking and snorkeling. First I was a bit skeptical, having snorkeled around Sipadan the last few days. I thought I was in for a big disppointement because I thought the snorkeling could not get any better than in Sipadan. However, I was looking forward to the hiking on Bohey Dulang because I basically had been living in the water the last five days snorkeling with Scuba Junkie. Crammed in a small boat with a whole lot of Chinese tourists, my expectations were not high. But the positive surprise was waiting at the top of Bohey Dulang and later in the waters right in front Pulau Mantabuan as well as Pulau Sibuan!
Bohey Dulang’s breathtaking views
Bohey Dulang, with its unique lagoon-like formation created by the flooding of seawater to a crater from the remnants of an ancient volcano, is about 313 hectars wide and its highest elevation is about 353 m. Bohey Dulang is home to many different species of birds, such as hornbills and partridges, making it a paradise for birders. Snorkelers will find colorful corals and fishes in the waters around Bohey Dulang, however there are better places to snorkel close to Bohey Dulang, such as Mantabuan and Sibuan.
The hike to Bohey Dulang’s viewpoint is about 700 m uphill and 600 m downhill on steep, muddy paths. It takes around 30 to 45 min to get to the viewpoint through the steaming hot jungle, depending on fitness level. It requires basic physcial fitness to complete the short but steep hike through the slippery and muddy jungle. Proper footwear and hydration are very important as well as mosquito repellent! There are high steps to crest. The safety ropes are a welcome aid! I was glad that I was wearing my hiking boots. Rubber shoes are available to rent at the Visitor Centre right at the Bohey Dulang jetty.
Those who tackle the hike through the muddy jungle up to the viewpoint are rewarded with a breathtaking view over Sabah’s turquoise waters! Just keep in mind that you will not be the only person visiting Bohey Dulang and hiking up there. When I was there - during peak season (July and August) - there were many Chinese tourists. However, they were not much into hiking on steep jungle paths but prefered relaxing at the jetty and taking pictures.
I booked my trip to Bohey Dulang through my hotel The Firefly Resort with Dive Monster. I was checking tour organizers before and since the reviews of Dive Monster are not the best, I was not keen to book with them. At the hotel, I realized only after placing my booking that they work with Dive Monster. I kind of have to agree with the reviews that they do not offer real guidance but operate more just as a transport service from one island to the other. However, the staff was friendly and the lunch we got served was decent. Since I always bring my own snorkeling gear, I cannot judge if Dive Monster’s gear is decent. There are many other tour operators organizing the same trip so the choice is yours.
The path up to Bohey Dulang’s viewpoint (and back down) is steep and slippery. Make sure to wear good shoes and bring enough water as it is very hot in the jungle.
The view from the top at Bohey Dulang is worth every drop of sweat.
Pulau Mantabuan - Excellent snorkeling
After the hike on Bohey Dulang, the trip continued to the smallest island of the Tun Sakaran Marine Park, to Mantabuan. Pulau Mantabuan is just about 2 km from Bohey Dulang and only 10 hectars wide. The little island is home to a small and friendly community of Sea Gypsies, the so called “Bajau Laut”. Our boat did not stop right away on the island but first in its vicinity on the water for snorkeling from the boat. After the sweaty hike through the hot jungle, snorkeling in the cool sea was more than welcome.
On Pulau Mantabuan we enjoyed our lunch break, after seeing many colorful corals and fishes while snorkeling.
As said, my expectations were not high but I was in for a surprise: I saw some of the best corals in the waters of Pulau Mantabuan! The water was so low, I had to be careful not to kick the corals with my fins. The visibility was perfect, the water was crystal clear, and there were so many colorful corals with so many colorful fishes, it was insane! I wish we could have stayed longer or we could have gone in snorkeling for a second time. There was so much to explore. Click here to watch a short clip of the corals and the fishes.
As everywhere in South East Asia, they also let the nonswimmers snorkel, equipped with life jackets and safety buoys. It was comical to see more than 20 Chinese tourists - all nonswimmers - paddling around and slowly drifting away with the weak current. One of the guides gave them a swimming lesson from the boat so that they would make it back on board.
The visibility was perfect despite the rain the night before.
The water was so low that I was right on top of the corals.
There were many different sea creatures to observe.
Beautiful healthy corals with colorful fishes.
After snorkeling, we stopped on Pulau Mantabuan for lunch. We had the chance to walk around a bit on the island.
For many years, Eastern Sabah had a notorious reputation for piracy and kidnappings. Joint patrols and the deployment of the Eastern Sabah Security Command (ESSCOM), authorities have successfully eradicated abductions of crew and tourists in the region. The military presence in this area is high.
Expect a military station on every little island. They do identity checks. The military knows exactly who is visiting these islands. I had to hand in a copy of my passport when booking the tour. The soliders at the checkpoints actually check. They had the list, guessed my nationality and since I was the only Swiss person, they immediately knew my name. But no worries, the soldiers are all very friendly. However, ask where you can walk, how far you can go and absolutely do not take pictures of the military stations and the soldiers working there.
Pualu Sibuan - a tropical dream
After our lunch break on Pulau Mantabuan our tour continued to Pulau Sibuan. First we stopped on the island to take pictures. Sibuan is a low-lying ( just 1 to 2 meters above sea level) sandy island situated atop of a coral reef. In the south there is a long narrow strip of white sand strechting out into the turquoise water, which gets flooded at high tide. As anywhere in South East Asia, the beaches are full with plastic trash. I deeply regeretted not having brought a trash bag to collect at least some of the trash polluting this stunning beach.
A long narrow strip of white sand stretches out into the sapphire blue sea.
The water was crystal clear with many colorful fishes swimming everywhere.
There was some more snorkeling in the waters around Sibuan. The coral was not as good as around Pulau Mantabuan but the water was very clear, with great visibility and there were big swarms of colorful fishes. The guides fed the fishes to attract them, which do not agree with. I think that even without the feeding there would have been enough fish.
After the last snorkeling at Sibuan, our boat headed back to Semporna. Dive Monster provided us with a towel to dry ourselves before going back to our hotels and resorts.
Bohey Dulang, Mantabuan and Sibuan essentials
I booked this trip through my hotel The Firefly Resort a little bit outside of Semporna in an old palm oil plantation. I can warmly recommend staying at this hotel if you are not keen staying in Semporna itself, which is not the nicest city to stay at. The Firefly Resorts provides a free shuttle service to the harbour in Semporna so that you. The rooms are very pretty and the garden of the hotel is beautiful. They have a big restaurant with a variety of delicious dishes which are more cartered towards Asian (especially Chinese) tourists.
I booked my Bohey Dulang, Mantabuan and Sibuan hiking and snorkeling trip with Dive Monster. Their Google reviews are not the best but I had a good time and got my money’s worth. However there are many other tour providers offering the same trip. They provide snorkeling gear (mask and snorkel, life vest and safety buoy for those who need it) as well as a towel at the end of the trip, free water and lunch.
What to bring
Here is a little list of essentials and “nice to have” to make your three island tour a full success:
Swimwear: I recommend wearing a rashguard or a thin neopren for protection against the sun, jelly fish and reef cuts (and out of respect for the locals).
Sunscreen: Only use reef-safe sunscreen.
A hat and sunglasses, as it gets extremly hot on the islands. Consider wearing long clothes to protect your skin from the sun when on land.
Good hiking boots or sturdy sneakers for the hike up to Bohey Dulang’s viewpoint, and especially back down to the jetty.
Mosquito repellent, since you will walk through the jungle.
Your personal snorkelling gear (mask and snorkel), since those provided might not fit your head/face well. They do not provide fins, so bring your own.
Snacks, if you get hungry easily.
Your personal towel.
Beach shoes/slides/flip-flops for on the boat and on the beach.
Underwater camera/GoPro: The coral is too good not to take pictures of!